In this chapter of the StealthBuilt Audi A6 Widebody Build, Sam Kimmel takes us deeper into the finishing stages of the fender flare construction and rear bumper development. With a mix of cardboard templates, hot glue, and fiberglass matting, this video shows exactly how to refine a DIY widebody kit with pro-level techniques on a budget.

If you’re building your own flares or planning to use fiberglass for bodywork, this episode is a goldmine of DIY fabrication and layout tips.

Shaping the Final Fender Flare Edges

Sam starts by trimming a top-mounted particle board to serve as a fixed structure for the bumper. This Sam begins by revisiting previously fiberglassed flare sections on the rear doors and lower rocker area. Unhappy with the original curvature, he refines the shape using:

• Air saws
• Flap wheels
• Paper templates for symmetrical alignment

The result is a more aggressive flare edge with the option to add functional brake ducting in the future.

How to Match Both Sides Without Digital Tools

This build intentionally avoids expensive CAD or 3D scanning, staying true to its DIY ethos. Sam explains his manual method for side-to-side accuracy:

• Create a paper template from one side
• Mark key points like the door handle, lower blade, and flare edge
• Transfer the template and build off it using wooden dowels and hot glue

“Will they match perfectly? No — but close enough for what we’re building by hand.”

This raw but effective approach keeps the project accessible and achievable for everyday garage builders.

Why Sam Uses Blue Tape (Even If It’s Pricey)

A lot of viewers ask: Why blue painter’s tape? Isn’t it expensive?

Sam explains:

• It makes mock-ups visually cohesive, turning mismatched materials into a clean, unified shape
• It helps highlight curves and surfaces more clearly on camera
• It’s easy to remove and reposition during layout

This visual clarity is essential when deciding if a shape works before moving to fiberglass or body filler.

Protecting Mockups with Aluminum Foil and Spray Adhesive

Before fiberglassing, Sam applies aluminum foil to the taped surface using 3M Super 77 or Super 90 adhesive. This protects the tape and underlying material from resin damage.

Without the foil barrier, resin solvents could eat through the tape and ruin the mock-up underneath.

This simple trick allows the fiberglass to be laid up cleanly and safely, then removed once cured.

Laying Down Fiberglass Mat

Sam uses chopped strand mat, not woven fiberglass cloth, for several reasons:

• Easier to conform to corners and curves
• Tears by hand (no scissors needed)
• Less prone to puckering or lifting in tight areas

The process:

1. Tear the mat into manageable pieces
2. Wet it out on a table with mixed resin
3. Apply directly to the foil-covered form
4. Use a heat gun to help parts cure and hold shape in stubborn areas

This approach is perfect for DIY widebody builders who don’t want to invest in vacuum bagging or complex molds just yet.

What’s Next in the Build?

With the flares and rear bumper fiberglassed, Sam hints at the next steps:

• Mounting the spoiler
• Transitioning into bodywork and filler shaping
• Releasing more footage from recent progress

This episode serves as the final prep before body sculpting begins — and the build is about to hit the home stretch.

---

Key Takeaways from Part 7

• Use templates, not tech, for side-to-side panel accuracy
• Blue tape improves visual design clarity
• Protect taped panels with foil and adhesive before fiberglassing
• Chopped strand mat is easier for tight curves than woven cloth
• Heat guns can help spot-cure resin in tricky spots

---

Watch the Full Process

📺 Watch the video on YouTube
📸 Follow behind-the-scenes and product links on Instagram: @stealthbuilt
💬 Drop your questions in the comments — Sam answers them in future videos!