In Part 3 of the Audi A6 Widebody Build, we dive into the next major milestone — building the base forms for the front and rear fender flares. This phase is all about layout, symmetry, and smart fabrication techniques using hot glue, dowel rods, and blue tape. If you’re into custom bodywork, widebody fabrication, or DIY vehicle mods, this tutorial-style video is packed with insights.

From Flat Panels to Flared Art: Getting Started

To shape the widebody flare design, Sam uses simple materials that yield professional results:

• 5/16” wooden dowel rods (cut and glued for form)
• Hardboard flare outlines
• Hot glue gun
• Blue painter’s tape for shaping contours

Using an angle grinder and clippers, he sizes each rod and begins gluing them from the inner tire line outward. While there’s no exact science to the curve, Sam aims for a flush outer edge that still allows the tires to tuck when lowered via air suspension.

Symmetry Is Everything: Matching Side to Side

To ensure consistency, the team uses:

• Tape measures for repeated measurements
• Templates from the opposite side
• Spacer blocks to hold edges in the perfect position

Sam also offers pro tips:

If you’re worried about paint damage, use painter’s tape under hot glue. And denatured alcohol works wonders to remove glue or permanent marker from painted surfaces.

These tricks make this a paint-safe, reversible method for prototyping widebody shapes.

Dual-Layer Flare Framework: Inner and Outer Edges

Sam constructs each flare with two layers of dowel rods:

• The inner edge ensures tire clearance during suspension cycling
• The outer edge defines the final visible fender shape

The blue painter’s tape is then wrapped tightly around the rods, forming a tensioned surface that gives each flare a clean, sculpted form — ideal for making a fiberglass mold later.

Whether you’re building concave or convex body lines, this tape-and-stick technique works beautifully.

Rear Fender Flares and Side Skirt Alignment

Before starting the rear flares, Sam lays the foundation with a side skirt baseboard to align the front and rear arches. Using the same technique as the front, he:

• Hot glues hardboard templates
• Adds dowel rods for inner and outer structure
• Uses digital angle finders for flare symmetry

To achieve a clean design without cutting deep into the door structure, he adds a custom panel onto the door itself, avoiding the need to cut seals or interfere with latching mechanisms.

Door Clearance and Finishing Touches

With the door flare prototype complete:

• He tests door movement and alignment
• Adds and trims tape for shape refinement
• Notes that some areas may need a few tries to get right

“It’s just dowel rods, tape, and hot glue. Don’t be discouraged — you can redo anything that doesn’t look right.”

The process is beginner-friendly but yields pro-level results. Everything is just a foundation — the fiberglass layer and bodywork come next.

Coming Up Next: Fiberglassing the Flare Bases

With both sides taped and shaped, the next video will cover:

• Applying fiberglass over the tape forms
• Creating solid, sandable bases
• Starting the real bodywork

Final Thoughts

This method of building custom fender flares is not only cost-effective, but it’s highly adaptable. Using everyday materials, Sam is able to mock up a widebody kit that fits perfectly, looks aggressive, and clears the tires under full travel.

🔧 Have questions about the materials or methods?
💬 Drop them in the comments on the YouTube video — Sam answers as many as he can.

📺 Watch the full build video here
👍 Like and subscribe to follow the entire Audi Widebody Build Series!